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Estefano during the Cook & Shoot Workshop in 2015

Estefano Onatrac: the food and travel photographer in love with people

the only love sentence – ever, above all – is ‘did you eat yet?’ Elsa Morante   Three hours from Utrecht, the night train takes another of the many curves, en route to Innsbruck. Beveled wheels glow briefly as they ride the tracks’ camber. The train had left the Netherlands on time, as could usually be depended. As the train steals through darkened countryside, somewhere in Germany, the outside disappears, and the rattling, glowing train is, for now, all that […]

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fire for blood

We, the unruly, with no fixed time for meals and hearts flowing as freely as our blood, wait in the small, dark, hot room for a different kind of feast. Earlier, you had said, It is no way to live out of suitcases, but words last little. Suitcases are shrugged off as it is suitcases that bring us to each other and cancel the distance between us. Truth is, we are not unruly. We fulfill every sacrosanct working commitment. Our respective […]

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in grief for baby zahra

Baby Zahra was just 11 months old when a bomb killed her along with other eight tourists. It happened and you might have never heard of them   In the summer, it gets hot in Iraq. So scorching your clothes are on fire. One with your skin. You just want to escape. It gets so hot the pavement in Baghdad is like chewed bubblegum underneath your soles. The weather in 2022 became anarchic to the extent nine sandstorms afflicted the […]

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it is not about me

it’s not about me

it’s not about me, said the wind, the leaf the branch, the tree it’s not about me, said the moon, the tide, the shoals, the sea no, it’s not about me, said the root, the bloom, the honey, the bee you are mistaken, said the morning, the body warm, the cup, the tea you see, it’s not about me we simply be part of forever the veritas, the hajj, the ver-a-city oh, you sweet dear, it’s not about us, it’s […]

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our empty rooms

  At around 3:00pm each day, 5 year old Thomasina gathered her dolls, a small blanket, her tea set and laid them down, among the daisies, in the increasingly overgrown garden. Her small hands moved with a large confidence.  Each of her treasures had their precise place, which she innately knew. Thomasina poured the tea – ‘just how he likes it’ – tucked ‘Handsome’, her large stuffed cat, under her arm, and waited. Thomasina waited. She waited. And waited. It […]

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Ethiopia – Where My Heart Is

Our guest – Trevor Jenner He is a celebrated author, traveler, explorer and fascinated observer. The English born Trevor Jenner is a champion for the people, the animals and the landscape of Ethiopia. His publication, Ethiopia Traveller’s Handbook, has received glowing reviews. Joanna Lumley, OBE FRGS, says: Absolutely stunning book. It has made me think of all I missed and reinforced my determination to return to Ethiopia. The book is a masterpiece, a masterclass on what every handbook should be. […]

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Polly and Cliff

Polly dealt with the news of her husband’s illness as she had dealt with most things that threatened to blow her life off course. She did not think of her ship sinking. Just that the voyage had become more challenging.  She knew that it was too late to avoid this storm, and hugging her knees, rocking in tears in the small hull of her life’s boat would not help, either. She must draw further strengths from that hidden place inside […]

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brother and sister

Ian, my brother

Would you like to visit us in Hamilton? I have a cottage I do not use. I know this place is expensive: you can stay there. Our last conversation. A few months later, while I was contemplating booking the flight, your body was found in that same cottage. Just 48 years old. I had not heard from you in a while, something told me a bad star was over us. Let’s say you had no money issue: what would you do? […]

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